Sailing in Whitsunday heaven

Positivity, positive energy, joy, happiness, whatever you choose to call it, is infectious. I was reminded of this on what turned out to be 'the Daddy of all cruises' aboard the 125ft island-trader 'Pacific Sunrise'.

The tone was set at check-in when the woman behind the desk got very excited on learning which of the dozens of boats that leave Airlie Beach every day we had chosen. Based on the website pictures I had my doubts, however her genuine enthusiasm and promise of five star treatment was infectious and seeped into my hangover-dulled spirit.

That sense of anticipation increased when our hostess, Louise and the first-mate, Luke met us at the marina and escorted us aboard where we were assigned our private en suite cabins for our 3 night cruise around the Whitsunday islands. We were giddy with excitement as we joined the other 13 passengers on the top deck for complimentary champagne as we set sail.

The weather was perfect and we were treated to a beautiful sunset over a mercury-like ocean before sitting down to the first of our 3 course gourmet dinners. I thought 'this is too good, something is going to go wrong'. But it didn't. Not once.

The next day started with a bacon and egg breakfast before the crew launched the kayaks and we spent the morning paddling around the clear, shallow waters of the aptly named Turtle Bay. We were stunned at the visibility and abundance of the marine life swimming around the coral just beneath us; starfish, sting-ray, fish and dozens of sea turtles. There was even a large rock nestled among the coral, about four feet in diameter, except it wasn't a rock. It was a very big, very old turtle that didn't even bother to move as we paddled right over it.

Next we were aboard the tender and speeding to the famous Whitehaven Beach where even I donned a bikini to swim in the crystal clear water and walk on impossibly fine, white sand; the photographic evidence of which will not appear on this blog! After a hike back through the Whitsunday Islands National Park, we were ready for the gourmet lunch served up by our brilliant chef, Alan.

That afternoon, Chey, the captain, suggested we change course and go in search of humpback whales. A good decision with a rich reward. On route, we were joined by not one but two pods of dolphins.

As we hung out over the side of the boat these beautiful creatures performed dives, spins and leaps for us. At one point there were at least 18 dolphins, big and small, playing in the bow-wave of the boat.  One of them turned on its side and actually winked at us! Their grace and beauty cast some kind of magic spell and joy descended on everyone of us.

When a breaching whale was spotted in the distance we literally did not know which way to turn. Dolphins to the bow and the starboard. Humpback whales to the stern and port. The whales were more cautious but our patience paid off and we spotted eleven of these magnificent creatures as they breached and dived.

At that point we could have gone home happy, but there was more to come. As we anchored in Luncheon Bay for the night, Chey suggested a sunset snorkel. Within minutes, dive-master Jesse had kitted us out in our 'suits of shame', more commonly known as wetsuits, and we were in the water, watching the setting sun bathe the lavender, ivory, burgundy, and moss coloured coral in a golden light.

Chey encouraged us to go underwater and hold our breath and as my fellow snorkelers bobbed away in their own bubbles of bliss, I held my breath, stuck my head underwater and actually heard the whales singing in the distance. Immersed in water, surrounded by curious fish, vibrant colours and the soft, sad whale song, I watched the sun sink below the horizon and felt an ocean of stress ebb away with the evening tide. Another gourmet dinner and some trivia games later I counted my blessings, and not for the first time on this trip.

So how do you follow a day like that? You go scuba-diving and snorkeling on the reef of course. The suits of shame emerged again and we spent the day visiting some of the most stunning coral coves in the Whitsundays. I attempted to go scuba-diving here 10 years ago and failed. I was terrified. This time I was still terrified but I did it. Once I actually started swimming underwater through the hills and valleys of magnificent coral I was fine, it was just getting to that stage! But, Jesse was very patient and held my hand all the way.

Once back on the boat I think I was more exhilarated about actually completing the dive than I was about what I saw while down there. But by the afternoon my adrenaline had dropped and I could enjoy the luminescent tropical fish, the giant pulsating clams, the perfectly symmetrical starfish and the incredible variety of colour and texture of the Blue Pearl Bay coral.

Day three was another perfect day, weather-wise at least, but it was with a heavy heart that we helped the crew hoist the sails on the way back to Airlie Beach. Quite simply, we didn't want this experience to end. It takes quite a talent to bring 15 strangers together from 8 different countries and all ages and stages of life and make each one of them feel like an honoured guest among friends, not a paying passenger. The crew of the Pacific Sunrise are a professional and highly skilled group and achieved this with ease.

This was a five star treatment trip where our hosts made us feel very welcome, relaxed and content. No surprise then that Nic and I and our new friend, Shannon, found it very hard to disembark. There was even talk of stowing away, but once we dried our eyes and found our land legs on Airlie Beach the company and craic continued. Long may it last.